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Travelogue Britain 1998

A Photo Essay Tour

Part II: The Lake District

by Jeffrey L. Thomas

Britain 1998: A three-week trip to Britain but only a couple of days in Wales. On this trip we experienced different parts of Britain. Adventures in the Lake District, Northumberland, and Scotland, with a final few days in London. New castles in Wales, beautiful hikes in the Lake District, Roman sites in Northumbria, two real castle hotels, and lots and lots of castles in Scotland. Instead of writing a full-blown essay, I've decided to create a photo-essay using more photographs accompanied by just a few comments regarding each site or activity. In other words, this is more like a photo album with comments.

Places Visited:

Part I: South Wales →  Caerleon: Roman Fortress & Ampitheatre →  Penyclawdd Court & Castle →  Llanthony Priory →  Hay Castle →  Bronllys Castle

Crickhowell Castle →  Abergavenny Castle →  Skenfrith & White Castles w/historian Richard Williams →  Brecon Castle →  Longtown Castle

Cilmeri: Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Memorial →  Goodrich Castle →  Pembridge Castle →  Monmouth Castle →  Usk Castle →  Hereford Cathedral

Part II: The Lake District →  Grasmere →  Oak Bank Hotel →  Hike to Alcock Tarn →  Hike to Easedale Tarn →  Keswick: Castlerigg Stone Circle 

Part III: Northumberland →  Raby Castle →  Langley Castle Hotel →  Hexham Abbey → Durham Cathedral → Hadrian's Wall Hike: Wallstown Crags  

Hadrian's Wall Hike: Cawfields section → Vindolanda Roma Fort →  Part IV: Scotland, The Highlands →  Polmaily House Hotel → Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle → Stuart Castle →  Corgarff Castle →  Caledonian Canal, Dochgarroch Locks →  Cawdor Castle →  Brodie Castle →  Balvenie Castle  

Kildrummy Castle → Auchindoun Tower House → Glenbuchat Castle → Eilean Donon Castle → Isle of Skye → Dunvegan Castle → Huntley Castle 

Fyvie Castle →  Blair Castle →  Glamis Castle →  Part V: Scotland, Stirling → Culcreuch Castle Hotel →  Stirling Castle → Castle Campbell

Doune Castle → Edinburgh Castle →  The Royal Mile →  Palace of Holyrood House →  Holyrood Abbey → Village of Balquhidder (Rob Roy)

Kilchurn Castle → Oban →  Dunstaffnage Castle →  Part IV: London →  The Goring Hotel →  Buckingham Palace →  St James Park

Kensington Palace → Picadilly → Plays: Phantom of the Opera (Her Majesty's) →  Complete Works of Shakespeare (Criterion) → Hyde Park  

Part II: The Lake District

Grasmere: Oak Bank Hotel

As was the case with our 1996 holiday to Snowdonia, Wales, we were in the Lake District to hike the beautiful mountains, lakes, and fells. As we explored this part of England we kept thinking that much of the Lake District reminded us of Wales. Both areas possess extraordinary beauty.

One of the things that stood out during our time here were the many varieties of sheep. While there are certainly a lot of sheep in Wales, in The Lake District we found different breeds of sheep, of all colors, shapes and sizes. Later in the week we purchased a sheep poster from one of the local shops, to remind us of all the different varieties we encountered.

Our accommodation for the week was the Oak Bank Hotel (top left). We has a 2nd floor room facing the street and overlooking a field of sheep. The hotel had a bar and a dining room for breakfast and dinner. There was also a nice garden in the back (bottom left). In the late evening after dinner we relaxed by standing along the stone fence across from the hotel and watching the sheep and their ewes. We enjoyed a pub lunch, pints, and dinner at the Red Lion Hotel in the village (middle right). Bottom right: this was the view just down the road from our B&B. Not bad.

Dove Cottage, Grasmere

Dove Cottage is a house on the edge of Grasmere in the Lake District of England. It is best known as the home of the poet William Wordsworth from December 1799 to May 1808. During this period he wrote much of the poetry for which he is famous for today.

Alcock Tarn Hike

Description: From Grasmere this challenging circular walk climbs to Alcock Tarn, winding through trees and out into open countryside for views of the valley, Lake Grasmere and the surrounding fells. Alcock Tarn is a lake located high in the fells on Heron Pike, roughly a mile and a half east of Grasmere. Although only about a 4-mile hike, this was a long and challenging walk that took us a while to complete. (We took our time.) Started our hike near Dove Cottage. Walked up the trail and turned right going over a bridge. Walked along a wall where the path got steeper. Followed along the wall then climbed a steep zig-zag to a rocky outcrop. Path turned left at the rocks and lead to a Neolithic-Age cairn and eventually a gate leading to Alcock Tarn. Picnic lunch at Alcock Tarn, where we enjoyed the beautiful views. Sandwiches purchased at a deli in the village and a couple pints of ale. There were lots of sheep grazing nearby us as we ate and a couple of ducks came up from the lake to see if we had anything for them. After lunch we continued our hike by following the path through a gap in the wall and starting our descent over a short, rocky section of path overlooking the Vale of Grasmere. The views were spectacular here. Path continued descending and we eventually reached level ground and the A591 across from Grasmere. The Swan Pub was right across the road. We enjoyed a couple of pints here and purchased a color sketch of the pub as a memento of our hike, which now hangs on the wall of our Den.

Easedale Tarn Hike

This was another beautiful walk that began just outside Grasemre. I thought it was a bit different from our hike to Alcock Tarn, where the countryside and the hike seemed more rugged. Although steep in a few sections, this hike seemed easier with more level walking. We also saw more hikers and families, likely because of a lesser degree of difficulty. We began by walking a quick half-mile out of Grasmere where the trail really begins. We found a sign pointing the way (top row: right) and crossed a wooden footbridge leading through the woods (bottom row: right). We eventually reached the lake (Easedale Tarn) where we again enjoyed a picnic lunch. After lunch we completed the hike across the fells and eventually made our way back down. As with our previous hike we were in no hurry, and we spent most of the day out on the trail enjoying the beautiful countryside. Grasmere really is a perfect location for exploring the Lake District.

Castlerigg Stone Circle, Keswick

On our final evening in the Lake District we visited the Castlerigg Stone Circle set high on a hill above the town of Keswick. Some feel that Castlerigg is perhaps the most atmospheric and dramatically sited of all British stone circles, with panoramic views of the mountains on all sides. Dating from about 3000 BC it is one of the earliest Neolithic stone circles in Britain. We drove through the town of Keswick and parked in the small lot next to the site. It was an overcast evening with light rain when we arrived, but that didn't stop us. Despite the bad weather there were several other people exploring the site too. We spent about half an hour walking around in between the stones, trying to figure out their configuration, while being entertained by a lively flock of sheep that were enjoying jumping up on some of the stones. (It is their home, after all.)

We had a wonderful time visiting Grasmere in the Lake District. It was a relaxing departure from our usual medieval castle-hopping. For most of the week our rental car remained idle, as we simply got out and hiked the beautiful countryside. Although I didn't think it was possible, we had found a rival for the spectacular beauty of Wales. Below left: sure hope we're on the right trail!


Part I: South Wales

Part III: Northumberland (Next)

Part IV: Scotland, The Highlands

Part V: Scotland, Stirling

Part VI: London


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