Travelogue Britain 1998

A Photo Essay Tour

Part I: South Wales

by Jeffrey L. Thomas

Britain 1998: A three-week trip to Britain but only a couple of days in Wales. On this trip we experienced different parts of Britain. Adventures in the Lake District, Northumberland, and Scotland, with a final few days in London. New castles in Wales, beautiful hikes in the Lake District, Roman sites in Northumbria, two real castle hotels, and lots and lots of castles in Scotland. Instead of writing a full-blown essay, I've decided to create a photo-essay using more photographs accompanied by just a few comments regarding each site or activity. In other words, this is more like a photo album with comments.

Places Visited:

Part I: South Wales → Caerleon: Roman Fortress & Ampitheatre → Penyclawdd Court & Castle → Llanthony Priory → Hay Castle → Bronllys Castle

Crickhowell Castle → Abergavenny Castle → Skenfrith & White Castles w/historian Richard Williams → Brecon Castle → Longtown Castle

Cilmeri: Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Memorial → Goodrich Castle → Pembridge Castle → Monmouth Castle → Usk Castle → Hereford Cathedral

Part II: The Lake District → Grasmere → Oak Bank Hotel → Hike to Alcock Tarn → Hike to Easedale Tarn → Keswick: Castlerigg Stone Circle

Part III: Northumberland → Raby Castle → Langley Castle Hotel → Hexham Abbey → Durham Cathedral → Hadrian's Wall Hike: Wallstown Crags

Hadrian's Wall Hike: Cawfields section → Vindolanda Roma Fort → Part IV: Scotland, The Highlands → Polmaily House Hotel → Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle → Stuart Castle → Corgarff Castle → Caledonian Canal, Dochgarroch Locks → Cawdor Castle → Brodie Castle → Balvenie Castle

Kildrummy Castle → Auchindoun Tower House → Glenbuchat Castle → Eilean Donon Castle → Isle of Skye → Dunvegan Castle → Huntley Castle

Fyvie Castle → Blair Castle → Glamis Castle → Part V: Scotland, Stirling → Culcreuch Castle Hotel → Stirling Castle → Castle Campbell

Doune Castle → Edinburgh Castle → The Royal Mile → Palace of Holyrood House → Holyrood Abbey → Village of Balquhidder (Rob Roy)

Kilchurn Castle → Oban → Dunstaffnage Castle → Part IV: London → The Goring Hotel → Buckingham Palace → St James Park

Kensington Palace → Picadilly → Plays: Phantom of the Opera (Her Majesty's) → Complete Works of Shakespeare (Criterion) → Hyde Park

Part I: South Wales

Caerleon

Britain's best collection of Roman ruins; amphitheatre, fort & barracks, and museum built over the ruins of a Roman bathhouse.

Caerleon Ampitheatre

Caerleon: Roman Fort

Pen-y-Clawdd Court

Grade I listed Tudor manor house in Llanvihangel Crucorney, Monmouthshire. Our accommodations for four nights.

Pen-y-Clawdd Court is a Grade I listed country house in Llanvihangel Crucorney situated 1 mile to the southwest of the village off the A465 road. It is a Tudor manor house, which lies within the bailey of what was Pen y Clawdd Castle, and is thought to date from circa 1625. The remains of an adjoining Norman motte and bailey castle known as Penyclawdd Castle are still discernible. Its history is not well documented, but it is thought to date from the late 11th century when Roger de Hastings was building castles in the area. The current house probably dates from the early 16th century, and began as a heavily timber-framed structure, but underwent major restructuring between about 1610 and 1625. Pen-y-Clawdd Court, described by The Welsh Academy encyclopaedia of Wales as "a memorable manor house with splendid chimney stacks", is built in an L-shaped plan on the site of a medieval manor. The interior is a maze of rooms set at different levels with low ceilings and a wealth of architectural detail. It was a quirky period accommodation; creaking stairs and floors, leaning walls and other structures. There was no electricity in dining room. We had breakfast by daylight and dinner by candlelight. There is also a little-known motte/ringwork castle behind the house. We loved this accommodation and it was a great base for exploring the Brecon Beacons and mid-Wales.

Pen y Clawdd Castle in back of the Manor House

Llanthony Priory

Ruined former Augustinian priory in the Vale of Ewyas, within the Black Mountains, Brecon Beacons National Park.

Impressive remains with the beautiful Black Mountains as a backdrop. Lots of interesting detail here and a pub too.
Drove from the priory to Hay-on-Wye via the beautiful Gospel Pass over the mountains (bottom right). The only way to go.

Hay Castle

11th or 12th century Norman castle and 17th-century mansion house in Hay-on-Wye in Powys. Originally a ringwork.

Lots of bookshops to browse and lunch with a pint (as usual) at the Blue Boar.

Bronllys Castle

Motte and bailey castle south of Bronllys, in Powys. Large round tower on the motte dates from the mid-12th century.

Not much to see here other than the tower, although the motte is impressive. A modern house occupies the bailey.

Crickhowell Castle

Originally a motte and bailey dating from ca. 1121. Refortified in stone and largely destroyed in 1403 by Owain Glyn Dwr.

More here than meets the eye. Once a very large castle with a tall motte and wide bailey. There's a children's playground in the bailey.

Abergavenny Castle

Original castle dates from c.1087. Site of a massacre of Welsh noblemen in 1175, carried out by the Norman William de Braose.

A dark and gloomy castle that matches its history. Not substantial.

Skenfrith Castle

Established by the Normans in the wake of the invasion of England in 1066. Rebuilt in stone at the end of the 12th century.

We met Richard Williams here, a contributor to the Castles of Wales website, and had lunch at The Bell pub in the village. After lunch we visited nearby White Castle.

Below: Jeff and Welsh historian Richard Williams at Skenfrith Castle

White Castle

Late 11th-century castle; part of a trio of 11th-12th century castles built in the Monnow Valley.

Impressive fortress surrounded by a moat. Most of the towers are intact and you can climb to the top of the castle. Impressive moat and outer bailey too.

Brecon Castle

Originally built in 1093 and was frequently attacked by the Welsh in 13th and 15th centuries. Converted to a hotel.

The medieval castle has been pretty much swallowed by the later buildings and hotel. Still a good place for a pint.

Longtown Castle

Norman motte-and-bailey fortification in Longtown, Herefordshire. Rebuilt in stone by Gilbert de Lacy.

Definitely some interesting bits here. The motte crowned by a stone keep is a highlight.

Cilmeri, Wales: Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Memorial

Traditionally the site (or near) where Prince Llywelyn ap Gruffydd was killed in 1282; one of the darkest days in all of Welsh history.

Goodrich Castle

One of the most complete and impressive castles along the Marches, next to the River Wye.

Pembridge Castle

Privately owned and not open to the public. View from road only.

Monmouth Castle

Only fragments of the castle remain. The nearby medieval Monnow Bridge is more interesting.

Usk Castle

Substantial castle with lots to explore. Textbook Norman castle surrounded by stunning gardens. We enjoyed lunch at The Castle pub afterwards.

Hereford Cathedral

A place of worship since the 8th century, with Saxon and Norman history. Beautiful Gothic interiors and exteriors. Well worth a visit.

Part II: The Lake District (Next)

Part III: Northumberland

Part IV: Scotland, The Highlands

Part V: Scotland, Stirling

Part VI: London

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